Chef Demo: French Onion Soup and Consommé

 

Chef Niehuss starting the bases for both

the Consommé and French Onion Soup in Foundations II.

 

French Onion Soup

Soupe a l'oignon

 

The history of French Onion Soup, or Soupe a l'oignon, from its country of origin, is said to date back to the reign of King Louis of France in the mid 18th century. Legend has it, the King and his hunting party stopped to find repast at his lodge deep in the woods. However, all that could be found in the pantry was onions, butter and champagne. It is said that he combined these ingredients, and in simple despair for sustenance, the first French onion soup was conceived.

Although this story may be truth or tale, the historical creation of French onion soup, born out of necessity has much basis. Onions are the staple ingredient of this dish, and with an abundance throughout much of the world, an ability to grow in most climates and with a long shelf-life, they are often considered a "poor man's food". Although the recipe for French onion soup had meager beginnings, it has evolved throughout time and the creativity of chefs to create the perfect balance of sweet, with the caramelization of the onions and the flavors of umami, with the rich meat stock and gratinéed finish with thick croutons and, traditionally, gruyere and parmesan cheeses.

 

Ingredients

(1/5 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

5 teaspoons butter

1 pound onions, sliced thin

42 ounces beef stock (or 1/2 beef and 1/2 chicken stock)

Salt, to taste

1 ounce sherry (optional)

French bread, thick-sliced or cut into large croutons, as needed

5 ounce gruyere or Swiss cheese, or a mixture, coarsely grated

 

Preparation

Heat the butter in a stockpot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until golden. Stir occasionally. Add the stock and bring to a boil. simmer until the onions are very tender and the flavors are well-blended, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the sherry, if desired.

For service, spoon the hot soup into a large ramekin three-quarters full. Top with the French bread to fit in one layer. Slightly immerse the bread into the soup. Generously top with the grated cheese to completely cover the bread. Place under a salamander, under a broiler, or on the top rack of an oven set on broil for 2-3 minutes, or until the cheese is completely melted, browned and bubbling. Carefully remove. garnish as desired, and serve. 

 

Yields: 2 large servings

 

Chefs Notes: When sautéing the onions, cook them on low and slow so they brown evenly and do not burn. This slow process may take up to approximately 30 minutes. Do not brown too fast or use too high of heat, so the onions caramelize properly for optimum flavor and texture. 



 

 

Consommé

  

Consommé is a clear and flavorful soup, created by the clarification of rich stocks with the use of egg whites, and enhanced in body with the use of ground meat, vegetables, herbs and spices. Consommé is traditionally served hot, as a light presentation, and simply garnished with seasonal herbs to finish, although chilled consommé, which becomes gelatinous at low temperatures, has become popular among modernist chefs.

 

Ingredients

(1/2 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

1/2 pound lean beef, preferably shin, ground

4 ounces onion, small chop

2 ounces celery, fine chop

2 ounces carrot, fine chop

4 ounces (by weight), egg whites

4 ounces canned tomatoes, crushed

3-4 parsley stems, roughly chopped

2 thyme stems

1/2 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed

2 1/2 quart beef stock, cold

 

Preparation

Combine the beef, mirepoix, egg whites, tomatoes, herbs and spices in a tall, heavy stockpot on a sturdy work surface. Mix vigorously with a wooden paddle or heavy whip. Add about a 1/2 pint cold stock and stir well. Ideally let stand approximately 30 minutes.

Gradually stir in the remaining cold stock; make sure the stock is well mixed with the other ingredients. Set the pot on moderately low heat and let it come to a simmer very slowly. Stir occasionally. When the simmering point is approaching, stop stirring.

Move the pot to lower heat and simmer, very slowly, about 1 1/2 hours, ideally. DO NOT stir or disturb the "raft" that forms on top. Very carefully ladle the clarified consommé from the stockpot and through a China cap lined with several layers of cheesecloth, or four layers of paper towel to substitute. When ladling the consommé into the China cap, pour it slowly down the inner sides of the China cap, as the cheesecloth or paper towels will attract impurities as the liquid runs down. Degrease the finished consommé by lightly sweeping the top of the liquid with paper towel to remove any remaining oily residue.

Season and garnish to taste and preference.

 

Yields: Approximately 2 quarts

 

Chefs Notes: When combining the beef, mirepoix and other ingredients together in the initial step of preparation, opt for using gloved hands in lieu of a wooden spoon or whip to incorporate the ingredients together thoroughly, and to make sure the ground meat is completely blended into the mix.

 

The "raft" of cooked meat, vegetables, herbs and spices 

that remains in the bottom of the stockpot

once the clarified consommé has been removed.

 

 



Chef Demo: Minestrone & Wisconsin Cheddar and Broccoli Soup

Jonathon Thrasher is Sous to Chef Niehuss, executing the Minestrone &

Wisconsin Cheddar and Broccoli Soup recipes in Foundations II.

 

 

 

 

 

Minestrone

 The origin of minestrone soup is rooted in the Italian kitchen, and translated, means "big soup", derived from the word minestra, which means to "dish up" or "serve". By tradition, minestrone is a soup made with vegetables, stock and pasta or rice. It generally contains seasonal and regional  vegetables, and can maintain a vegetarian quality, often preferred for a first course, or meat and meat stocks can be added to complete a light main entrée. Minestrone is part of what Italians call "cucina povera", or "poor people's cuisine", as often the ingredients comprised "cortoni", or leftovers and scraps, from previously prepared dishes.

There are as infinite variations on minestrone soup as the number of cooks that have prepared them, again, dependent on the preferred ingredients used and their cost and abundance for a particular area or time of year. In Genoa and the Tuscan region of Italy, for example, basil grows plentifully most of the year, so adding fresh basil leaves or basil pesto to the minestrone is very common. In Sardinia, chickpeas, or more familiarly garbanzo beans, are a mainstay in the Mediterranean diet, and so Minestrone di Ceci, is a pasta and vegetable minestrone with the addition of these legumes for a heartier soup.

 

Ingredients

(1/4 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

1 fl. ounce olive oil

1/4 lb. sliced thin

2 ounces celery, small dice

2 ounces carrots, small dice

1/2 tsp. garlic, chopped

2 ounces green cabbage, finely shredded

2 ounces zucchini, medium dice

1/4 lb. canned tomatoes, crushed

1 1/4 quarts white stock (chicken or veal)

1/4 tsp. dried basil

1 1/2 oz. small macaroni (such as ditalini)

6 ounces drained, canned cannellini or other white beans

1/16 cup chopped parsley (to finish)

Salt, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

Parmesan cheese, grated, as needed (to finish)

 

Preparation

Heat the oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the onions, celery, carrots and garlic. Sweat them in the oil until almost tender. Do not brown. Add the cabbage and zucchini. Stir to mix the vegetables. Continue to sweat another 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, stock and basil. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until the vegetables are almost cooked. (Do not overcook. The soup will continue to cook when the pasta is added.) Add the pasta and continue to simmer the soup until the pasta is cooked. (Alternatively, cook pasta separately and add to the soup just before serving.) Add the beans and return soup to a boil. Add the parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Just before service, top with the parmesan cheese, or serve cheese separately.

 

Yields: Approximately 4 (12 ounce) servings

 

Chef's Notes: To develop more flavor and complexity in this dish, add in small meatballs to the soup, uncooked, and saute along with the onion, celery and carrot mirepoix. This take on minestrone is more commonly known as Italian Wedding Soup, as the flavors of the meat and vegetables "marry" together. If one prefers a completely vegetarian option, on the other hand, simply substitute vegetable stock (mushroom stock preferred for additional umami flavor) in lieu of chicken or veal stock.

 

 

Wisconsin Cheddar and Broccoli Soup

  Although this hearty cream soup is delicious anytime of the year, it works out perfectly in the Northwest, that as the fall season approaches and the weather cools come September and October, it is ideal that the seasonal availability of broccoli is at its height. Served with a few crostini and a small salad for lunch, or in a rustic bread bowl for a substantial dinner, this soup will surely delight you, your family and guests alike.

Ingredients

(1/3 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

1/6 pound butter

2 ounces onion, chopped fine

1 1/3 ounce celery, chopped fine

1/6 pound, broccoli stems, small to medium dice

1 1/3 ounces mushrooms, chopped

3 Tablespoons flour

3 cups chicken or veal stock (white stock)

1/3 pint milk, hot

4 ounces broccoli florets, quickly boiled to desired tenderness

1/3 pound sharp cheddar cheese, grated

2 1/2 to 3 ounces of heavy cream, hot

Salt, to taste

White pepper, to taste

 

Preparation

Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan over moderate heat. Add the onion , celery, broccoli stems, and mushrooms. Sweat the vegetables without letting them brown. Add the flour and stir to make a roux. Cook the roux a few minutes, but do not let it start to brown.

Gradually beat in the stock. Bring to a boil, stirring with a whip, as it thickens. Simmer until the vegetables are very tender. Skim the soup carefully. Pass the soup through a food mill to puree it. Pass the soup through a chinois or fine strainer.

Add the hot milk to the soup. Heat the soup again, but do not let it boil. Separate the broccoli florets into pieces small enough to be eaten with a soup spoon. Add them to the soup. If the soup is to be served at once, proceed to the next step. Otherwise, cool in a cold-water bath and refrigerate until service time. Reheat soup to a simmer when ready to finish.

Add the cheese to the soup and stir until entirely melted. Carefully reheat the soup, but do not let it boil, or else the cheese may curdle or separate. Stir in the heavy cream. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

 

Yields: Approximately 2-4 servings (4 cups)

 

Chef's Notes: If a Vitamix, or similar strong blender is on hand, opt for this alternative to the use of a food mill; pureeing the soup on high until all ingredients are blended smoothly. Then, pass the soup through a chinois or fine strainer for an ideal consistency before adding the milk and final ingredients.