Chef Niehuss starting the bases for both
the Consommé and French Onion Soup in Foundations II.
French Onion Soup
Soupe a l'oignon
The history of French Onion Soup, or Soupe a l'oignon, from its country of origin, is said to date back to the reign of King Louis of France in the mid 18th century. Legend has it, the King and his hunting party stopped to find repast at his lodge deep in the woods. However, all that could be found in the pantry was onions, butter and champagne. It is said that he combined these ingredients, and in simple despair for sustenance, the first French onion soup was conceived.
Although this story may be truth or tale, the historical creation of French onion soup, born out of necessity has much basis. Onions are the staple ingredient of this dish, and with an abundance throughout much of the world, an ability to grow in most climates and with a long shelf-life, they are often considered a "poor man's food". Although the recipe for French onion soup had meager beginnings, it has evolved throughout time and the creativity of chefs to create the perfect balance of sweet, with the caramelization of the onions and the flavors of umami, with the rich meat stock and gratinéed finish with thick croutons and, traditionally, gruyere and parmesan cheeses.
Ingredients
(1/5 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)
5 teaspoons butter
1 pound onions, sliced thin
42 ounces beef stock (or 1/2 beef and 1/2 chicken stock)
Salt, to taste
1 ounce sherry (optional)
French bread, thick-sliced or cut into large croutons, as needed
5 ounce gruyere or Swiss cheese, or a mixture, coarsely grated
Preparation
Heat the butter in a stockpot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until golden. Stir occasionally. Add the stock and bring to a boil. simmer until the onions are very tender and the flavors are well-blended, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the sherry, if desired.
For service, spoon the hot soup into a large ramekin three-quarters full. Top with the French bread to fit in one layer. Slightly immerse the bread into the soup. Generously top with the grated cheese to completely cover the bread. Place under a salamander, under a broiler, or on the top rack of an oven set on broil for 2-3 minutes, or until the cheese is completely melted, browned and bubbling. Carefully remove. garnish as desired, and serve.
Yields: 2 large servings
Chefs Notes: When sautéing the onions, cook them on low and slow so they brown evenly and do not burn. This slow process may take up to approximately 30 minutes. Do not brown too fast or use too high of heat, so the onions caramelize properly for optimum flavor and texture.
Consommé
Consommé is a clear and flavorful soup, created by the clarification of rich stocks with the use of egg whites, and enhanced in body with the use of ground meat, vegetables, herbs and spices. Consommé is traditionally served hot, as a light presentation, and simply garnished with seasonal herbs to finish, although chilled consommé, which becomes gelatinous at low temperatures, has become popular among modernist chefs.
Ingredients
(1/2 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)
1/2 pound lean beef, preferably shin, ground
4 ounces onion, small chop
2 ounces celery, fine chop
2 ounces carrot, fine chop
4 ounces (by weight), egg whites
4 ounces canned tomatoes, crushed
3-4 parsley stems, roughly chopped
2 thyme stems
1/2 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed
2 1/2 quart beef stock, cold
Preparation
Combine the beef, mirepoix, egg whites, tomatoes, herbs and spices in a tall, heavy stockpot on a sturdy work surface. Mix vigorously with a wooden paddle or heavy whip. Add about a 1/2 pint cold stock and stir well. Ideally let stand approximately 30 minutes.
Gradually stir in the remaining cold stock; make sure the stock is well mixed with the other ingredients. Set the pot on moderately low heat and let it come to a simmer very slowly. Stir occasionally. When the simmering point is approaching, stop stirring.
Move the pot to lower heat and simmer, very slowly, about 1 1/2 hours, ideally. DO NOT stir or disturb the "raft" that forms on top. Very carefully ladle the clarified consommé from the stockpot and through a China cap lined with several layers of cheesecloth, or four layers of paper towel to substitute. When ladling the consommé into the China cap, pour it slowly down the inner sides of the China cap, as the cheesecloth or paper towels will attract impurities as the liquid runs down. Degrease the finished consommé by lightly sweeping the top of the liquid with paper towel to remove any remaining oily residue.
Season and garnish to taste and preference.
Yields: Approximately 2 quarts
Chefs Notes: When combining the beef, mirepoix and other ingredients together in the initial step of preparation, opt for using gloved hands in lieu of a wooden spoon or whip to incorporate the ingredients together thoroughly, and to make sure the ground meat is completely blended into the mix.
The "raft" of cooked meat, vegetables, herbs and spices
that remains in the bottom of the stockpot
once the clarified consommé has been removed.
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