From Books to Brunoise: August 2014

Monday, August 25, 2014

Chef Demo: Shrimp Bisque and Creamed Split Pea Soup

Shrimp Bisque

Ingredients

(1/2 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

Preparation

Yields: Approximately 2 quarts

Chefs Notes:

Creamed Split Pea Soup

Ingredients

(1/6 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen, inspired)

1 ounce salt pork

10 teaspoons onion, small dice

5 teaspoons celery, small dice

5 teaspoons carrot, small dice

1 quart ham stock

1/6 ham bone or ham hock

1/2 pound green split peas, dried

Sachet Ingredients:

1/6 bay leaf

1 clove

1 peppercorn

Salt, to taste

Pepper, taste

Preparation

Cut the salt pork into fine dice. Saute the salt pork slowly in a heavy saucepot on low heat to render the fat. Do not brown the pork. Add the mirepoix and sweat in the fat until the vegetables are slightly softened. Add the ham stock and ham bone. Bring to a boil. Rinse the split peas under cold water. Drain in a strainer and add to the stock. Add the sachet. Cover and simmer until the peas are tender; about one hour. Remove the ham and sachet. Pass the soup through a food mill. Bring the soup back to a simmer. If it is too thick, bring it to proper consistency by adding additional stock. Season to taste.

If a ham hock was used, trim off the meat, dice it, and add it to the soup to finish.

Yields: 1 quart

Chefs Notes: If a less creamy version of this soup is preferred, only pass half of the soup through the food mill, or skip that step in its entirety. Especially if left in a more rustic state, a very common garnish for this soup may be additional chopped ham or fried bacon bits, crème fraiche or sour cream, and chopped scallions. Hot sauce is often used to finish on an individual basis, to attain a desired level of heat.

Chef Demo: Alfredo Sauce & Basil Pesto

Alfredo Sauce

Ingredients

(1/2 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

Preparation

Yields:

Chefs Notes:

Basil Pesto

Ingredients

(1/2 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

Preparation

Yields:

Chefs Notes:

Chef Demo: Beer Battered Vegetables

Beer Battered Vegetables

Beer Battered Onion Rings

Ingredients

(1/2 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

Preparation

Yields:

Chefs Notes:

Chef Demo: Polenta

Polenta

Chef Demo: Fresh Pasta

Fresh Pasta

Ingredients

(1/2 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

Preparation

Yields:

Chefs Notes:

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Chef Demo: Rice Pilaf

Rice Pilaf

Rice pilaf, in its simplicity, is a wonderful side dish, but with the addition of

ingredients and garnish to one's imagination, it can be brought to another level of complexity and sophistication. Simply garnish with chopped herbs or scallions for additional

flavor and texture, or sauté button or cremini mushrooms in butter, thyme and garlic,

and incorporate into the rice just prior to placing it in the oven; the flavor of the mushrooms will permeate the rice and add a level of umami desired by the palate. Dried nuts and/or fruits take this dish in a completely different direction, and make use of the unlimited variations of rice available, from brown to wild rice, to make this basic application full of flavor and depth.

Ingredients
1 cup long-grain white rice
2 ounces onion, small dice
1 clove garlic, minced
1 ounce butter
2 cups chicken stock
2 branches fresh thyme
Salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste

Herbs, chopped scallions, or preferred, for garnish

Preparation
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Heat the stock in a saucepan to a rolling simmer.
In a second saucepan (oven-safe) melt the butter. Add in the onion and sauté until tender (approximately 5 minutes); careful not to brown. Add in the garlic and sauté an additional several minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat all the ingredients with the butter. Once coated, all the simmering stock.
Bring the saucepan back to a rolling simmer, stirring occasionally, and add the thyme branches. Cover and place in the preheated oven. Bake for approximately 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and liquids are absorbed; ideally simultaneously. Allow the rice to sit, covered, for several minutes. Uncover, remove the thyme branches, and using a fork, "fluff" onto a flat baking sheet or plate. Season to taste, and garnish to serve.

Yields: 4 servings

Chef Demo: Tempura

Tempura

Tempura, translated, means "feathered". It is a technique of combining cold or sparkling water, soft wheat flour and additional starches to create a light batter, ideal for frying vegetables and prawns, traditionally. For best results, keep the batter cold at all times, by either adding ice cold water or ice to the batter and/or placing the mixing bowl on top of a larger bowl filled with ice.

Ingredients

(From Chef Jeremy's repertoire of recipes)

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup corn starch

1/2 cup finely ground dried masa (found in most grocery stores in the flour or ethnic food aisles)

Sparkling water or club soda

High temperature oil for deep frying (such as canola oil)

All purpose flour for dredging

Kosher salt, to season flour and finish ingredients after frying

1 1/2 pounds cleaned and cut vegetables or prawns for frying

Soy Ginger Dipping Sauce, courtesy of Alton Brown, Food Network (recipe follows)

Preparation

Combine the flour, cornstarch and masa in a large bowl and mix well. This is the dry ingredient mix for tempura, and may be stored for future use in a plastic container or zip lock bag. Pour 1 cup of water into a bowl and slowly whisk in the necessary amount of the tempura dry mix until it ha reached a consistency of thin pancake batter. It is desirable for the batter to be slightly lumpy. If not frying immediately, refrigerate until ready for use.

Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

To fry the tempura, heat the oil to 375 degrees in a deep fat fryer or stock pot over medium-high heat. (Use a candy thermometer to ensure proper temperature.) Place the dredging flour in a shallow dish and season with kosher salt.

Lightly coat the vegetables, or ingredients to be fried, in the flour mixture, and tap off the excess. Dip into the tempura batter and allow the excess batter to drain off. Use tongs to place the item into the frying liquid, while moving it back and forth in a "feathering" motion. Fry each item, in small batches, until they are golden brown. Carefully remove the tempura items from the fryer with tongs onto the sheet tray lined with paper towels. Keep the fried items warm in the preheated oven until all are prepared and ready to serve.

Serve with Soy Ginger Dipping Sauce, courtesy of Alton Brown, Food Network (recipe follows)

Yields: 1 1/2 pounds tempura ingredients

Chef's Notes: Whether it is derived out of tradition or produces the ideal consistency, tempura batter is historically mixed using a pair of chopsticks, in lieu of a whisk or spoon. By using such "tools", it does ensure that the batter will be slightly lumpy, which is desired, to create a light and crispy final product.

Soy Ginger Dipping Sauce

There is absolutely no reason to spend time and energy "re-inventing the wheel". Alton Brown, cuisine expert and Food Network persona, has absolutely nailed this tempura dipping sauce; a wonderful blend of sweet and salty, with a generous blend of umami flavor from the soy.

Ingredients

1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce

1/4 cup rice wine vinegar

2 Tablespoons finely grated ginger

2 Tablespoons finely chopped green onion

2 medium garlic cloves, finely minced

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Preparation

Whisk all ingredients until combined and serve.

Yields: 1 cup

Chef Demo: New England Clam Chowder

New England Clam Chowder

“Clam chowder is one of those subjects, like politics or religion,

that can never be discussed lightly. Bring it up even incidentally,

and all the innumerable factions of the clam bake regions

raise their heads and begin to yammer.”

-Louis P. De Gouy, The Soup Book (1949)

Ingredients

1 1/3 cup canned, minced clams with their juice OR fresh, shucked clams with their juice (separate the clams from the juice for preparation)

2-4 ounces bacon or salt pork, cut into fine dice

3 ounces onion, small dice

1 garlic clove, finely minced

1 ounce flour

1/3 pound potatoes, medium dice (opt for a waxy red or Yukon Gold potato)

1 2/3 cup milk, hot PLUS 1/6 cup heavy cream, hot

Salt, to taste

White pepper, to taste

Herbs, to garnish

Preparation

In a medium saucepot, render the bacon in approximately 2 Tablespoons water on moderate heat, so that it is cooked through, the flavor is released, but it does not crisp. Add in the onion and sauté until translucent; do not brown. Add in the garlic to incorporate; sauté 1-2 minutes further . Stir in the flour to make a roux. Slowly drizzle in the clam juice, while whisking, until consistency is smooth. Simmer, stirring often, to reduce by half. Heat milk and cream in a separate pot until hot. Gradually stir in the milk/cream mixture to incorporate and bring to a gentle simmer. Do not boil, which may cause the liquid to break. Once the liquid is smooth, add in the potatoes and simmer until tender. (Approximately 10 minutes) Add in chopped thyme. Simmer an additional several minutes. Add in the clams to warm and flavor. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and garnish to serve.

Yields: 1 quart (Approximately 2 large main-course servings, or 4 cups served as a starter)

Chef Demo: White Beans Bretonne

White Beans

Bretonne Style

A similar recipe to this was published by French Chef and James Beard Award-winner, Pierre Franey, in February of 1986, in a New York Times editorial titled, "Resurgence of France's Hearty Classics". This dish, in its simplicity, has its roots in rustic French cuisine, but appropriate and delicious for any modern menu. Traditionally served with roasted lamb, white beans Breton is a wonderful accompaniment to roast chicken, grilled salmon, or a light alternative to potatoes to cut the decadence of the French classic, Boeuf Bourguignonne.

Ingredients

(1/4 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

1/2 pound dried white beans

1/4 carrot, small (halved, lengthwise)

1/4 stem celery

1/4 onion, small, peeled

SACHET: 1/4 bay leaf, 2 parsley stems, 1 peppercorn, 1 clove, 1 sprig of thyme

1 garlic clove, smashed

2 ounces butter

2 ounces onion, small dice

1/2-1 garlic clove, minced

4 ounces canned tomatoes, with juice, coarsely chopped

Chopped parsley, to garnish

Preparation

Soak the beans overnight in cold water (1 to 3 ratio, beans to water). Drain the beans and place in a deep sauté pan with enough cold water to cover by 1". Add the carrot, celery, onion, smashed clove of garlic and sachet. Simmer until the beans are tender, but not soft or broken. (Approximately 30 minutes) Drain the beans, saving the liquid. Discard the vegetables and sachet.

Heat the butter in a large sauté pan and sauté the onion and minced garlic until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the tomatoes and sauté a few minutes to reduce the liquid. Add in the beans and stir, carefully (as not to break the beans). Simmer until the beans are heated through and flavors are blended. If necessary, add in the reserved bean liquid to rehydrate. Season to taste and garnish to serve.

Yields: Approximately 4, 6 ounce servings

Chef Demo: Glazed Root Vegetables & Braised Red Cabbage

Glazed Root Vegetables

If trying to get family and friends to "eat their vegetables", serve them this simple side dish of glazed root vegetables, and they will be happy to accommodate. The recipe calls for parsnips, turnips and carrots, but opt for any root vegetables that are at the height of season for best flavor.

This is a wonderful alternative to boiled or roasted vegetables for a casual dinner, or one of sophistication any time of the year.

Ingredients

6 ounces parsnips, cut into half rondelles, 3/8" thick

8 ounces turnips (or celery root, if in season or preferred), cut into half rondelles, 3/8" thick

10 ounces carrots, cut into half rondelles, 3/8" thick

4-5 teaspoons butter

1/2 ounces sugar (or more, to taste)

Salt, to taste

Chopped parsley, to garnish

Preparation

Trim and peel the parsnips, turnips (or celery root) and carrots. Place the parsnips in a saucepan with boiling, salted water, to cover. Simmer, until tender. Remove the parsnips and set aside. In the same boiling water repeat the process with the turnips and the carrots, respectively.

Heat the butter in a large sauté pan. Add in the boiled vegetables and sprinkle with the sugar. Season to taste with salt, and additional butter to coat, if necessary. Sauté until the vegetables are well glazed and to desired tenderness. Plate the vegetables and drizzle with any remaining pan glaze, and garnish with chopped parsley for service.

Yields: Approximately 2, 6 ounce servings

Chefs Notes: There are two main reasons why it is "a must" to boil the vegetables separately, and in the order indicated. First of all, parsnips, turnips or celery root, and carrots take varying amounts of time to reach desired tenderness; if they were all boiled together some of the vegetables may be

al dente, while others may be under or overcooked. Secondly, using the same water to boil each of the vegetables is most efficient, but if one boiled the carrots first, the orange pigment released into the water during the cooking process would discolor the other vegetables; therefore it is important to boil the carrots last.

Braised Red Cabbage

"I like to get where the cabbage is cooking

and catch the scents."

-Red Smith, American sports columnist

Braised cabbage is such a fantastic side dish, if it is done properly.

This recipe enhances the flavor of the understated vegetable, and with the addition of bacon and diced apple, brings in the sweet and salty flavors that are so attractive to the palate. This side dish would be a wonderful enhancement to any plate or table-scape, both to the eye and taste, but by braising the cabbage further with additional vinegar, this cabbage would be an absolutely phenomenal alternative to sauerkraut on a rustic Reuben sandwich.

Ingredients

(1/6 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

2-4 ounces bacon, diced

2 Tablespoons canola oil

1 pound red cabbage, core discarded, shredded 3"x 1/4"

1/6 pound onions, julienned 1/8" thick

1 Tablespoon sugar (may need more, to taste)

1/2 cup water

1 apple, cored, uniformly small diced

SACHET: 1 clove, 1 whole allspice, 1 small cinnamon stick

4 teaspoons apple cider vinegar or red wine vinegar

2-3 ounces red wine (or more red wine vinegar, for color and acidity)

Salt, to taste

Pepper, to taste

Chopped parsley, to garnish

Preparation

Sauté the bacon and oil in a large sauté pan over moderate heat until the bacon is slightly crispy. Stir frequently so that the bacon does not burn, nor does it form a "fond", or browning, on the bottom of the pan. Add in onions and continue to sauté. Add in sugar to onions and bacon. Continue to sauté, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent. Add in the cabbage to braise, Season lightly with salt, to taste. Add in the water and deglaze the bottom of the pan. Add in the sachet and diced apples.

Cover and simmer on low heat, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender to the touch and the cabbage has reached desired tenderness; approximately 8-10 minutes. Add in the apple cider vinegar or red wine vinegar and the red wine. Additional salt and/or sugar may need to be added, to taste.

Cook for an additional 5 minutes to incorporate the liquids and tenderize the cabbage further.

Season to taste with salt and pepper, plate and garnish for service.

Yields: Approximately 4, 5 ounce side portions

Chefs Notes: It is very important in this recipe to often taste and adjust seasoning accordingly. The sweetness, or lack there of, of cabbage varies so greatly depending on the season, the particular crop or where it was grown, that seasoning properly is essential to draw out the desired flavor.