From Books to Brunoise

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Chef Demo: New England Clam Chowder

New England Clam Chowder

“Clam chowder is one of those subjects, like politics or religion,

that can never be discussed lightly. Bring it up even incidentally,

and all the innumerable factions of the clam bake regions

raise their heads and begin to yammer.”

-Louis P. De Gouy, The Soup Book (1949)

Ingredients

1 1/3 cup canned, minced clams with their juice OR fresh, shucked clams with their juice (separate the clams from the juice for preparation)

2-4 ounces bacon or salt pork, cut into fine dice

3 ounces onion, small dice

1 garlic clove, finely minced

1 ounce flour

1/3 pound potatoes, medium dice (opt for a waxy red or Yukon Gold potato)

1 2/3 cup milk, hot PLUS 1/6 cup heavy cream, hot

Salt, to taste

White pepper, to taste

Herbs, to garnish

Preparation

In a medium saucepot, render the bacon in approximately 2 Tablespoons water on moderate heat, so that it is cooked through, the flavor is released, but it does not crisp. Add in the onion and sauté until translucent; do not brown. Add in the garlic to incorporate; sauté 1-2 minutes further . Stir in the flour to make a roux. Slowly drizzle in the clam juice, while whisking, until consistency is smooth. Simmer, stirring often, to reduce by half. Heat milk and cream in a separate pot until hot. Gradually stir in the milk/cream mixture to incorporate and bring to a gentle simmer. Do not boil, which may cause the liquid to break. Once the liquid is smooth, add in the potatoes and simmer until tender. (Approximately 10 minutes) Add in chopped thyme. Simmer an additional several minutes. Add in the clams to warm and flavor. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and garnish to serve.

Yields: 1 quart (Approximately 2 large main-course servings, or 4 cups served as a starter)

Chef Demo: White Beans Bretonne

White Beans

Bretonne Style

A similar recipe to this was published by French Chef and James Beard Award-winner, Pierre Franey, in February of 1986, in a New York Times editorial titled, "Resurgence of France's Hearty Classics". This dish, in its simplicity, has its roots in rustic French cuisine, but appropriate and delicious for any modern menu. Traditionally served with roasted lamb, white beans Breton is a wonderful accompaniment to roast chicken, grilled salmon, or a light alternative to potatoes to cut the decadence of the French classic, Boeuf Bourguignonne.

Ingredients

(1/4 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

1/2 pound dried white beans

1/4 carrot, small (halved, lengthwise)

1/4 stem celery

1/4 onion, small, peeled

SACHET: 1/4 bay leaf, 2 parsley stems, 1 peppercorn, 1 clove, 1 sprig of thyme

1 garlic clove, smashed

2 ounces butter

2 ounces onion, small dice

1/2-1 garlic clove, minced

4 ounces canned tomatoes, with juice, coarsely chopped

Chopped parsley, to garnish

Preparation

Soak the beans overnight in cold water (1 to 3 ratio, beans to water). Drain the beans and place in a deep sauté pan with enough cold water to cover by 1". Add the carrot, celery, onion, smashed clove of garlic and sachet. Simmer until the beans are tender, but not soft or broken. (Approximately 30 minutes) Drain the beans, saving the liquid. Discard the vegetables and sachet.

Heat the butter in a large sauté pan and sauté the onion and minced garlic until the onions are soft and translucent. Add the tomatoes and sauté a few minutes to reduce the liquid. Add in the beans and stir, carefully (as not to break the beans). Simmer until the beans are heated through and flavors are blended. If necessary, add in the reserved bean liquid to rehydrate. Season to taste and garnish to serve.

Yields: Approximately 4, 6 ounce servings

Chef Demo: Glazed Root Vegetables & Braised Red Cabbage

Glazed Root Vegetables

If trying to get family and friends to "eat their vegetables", serve them this simple side dish of glazed root vegetables, and they will be happy to accommodate. The recipe calls for parsnips, turnips and carrots, but opt for any root vegetables that are at the height of season for best flavor.

This is a wonderful alternative to boiled or roasted vegetables for a casual dinner, or one of sophistication any time of the year.

Ingredients

6 ounces parsnips, cut into half rondelles, 3/8" thick

8 ounces turnips (or celery root, if in season or preferred), cut into half rondelles, 3/8" thick

10 ounces carrots, cut into half rondelles, 3/8" thick

4-5 teaspoons butter

1/2 ounces sugar (or more, to taste)

Salt, to taste

Chopped parsley, to garnish

Preparation

Trim and peel the parsnips, turnips (or celery root) and carrots. Place the parsnips in a saucepan with boiling, salted water, to cover. Simmer, until tender. Remove the parsnips and set aside. In the same boiling water repeat the process with the turnips and the carrots, respectively.

Heat the butter in a large sauté pan. Add in the boiled vegetables and sprinkle with the sugar. Season to taste with salt, and additional butter to coat, if necessary. Sauté until the vegetables are well glazed and to desired tenderness. Plate the vegetables and drizzle with any remaining pan glaze, and garnish with chopped parsley for service.

Yields: Approximately 2, 6 ounce servings

Chefs Notes: There are two main reasons why it is "a must" to boil the vegetables separately, and in the order indicated. First of all, parsnips, turnips or celery root, and carrots take varying amounts of time to reach desired tenderness; if they were all boiled together some of the vegetables may be

al dente, while others may be under or overcooked. Secondly, using the same water to boil each of the vegetables is most efficient, but if one boiled the carrots first, the orange pigment released into the water during the cooking process would discolor the other vegetables; therefore it is important to boil the carrots last.

Braised Red Cabbage

"I like to get where the cabbage is cooking

and catch the scents."

-Red Smith, American sports columnist

Braised cabbage is such a fantastic side dish, if it is done properly.

This recipe enhances the flavor of the understated vegetable, and with the addition of bacon and diced apple, brings in the sweet and salty flavors that are so attractive to the palate. This side dish would be a wonderful enhancement to any plate or table-scape, both to the eye and taste, but by braising the cabbage further with additional vinegar, this cabbage would be an absolutely phenomenal alternative to sauerkraut on a rustic Reuben sandwich.

Ingredients

(1/6 recipe from Culinary Foundations, Wayne Gisslen)

2-4 ounces bacon, diced

2 Tablespoons canola oil

1 pound red cabbage, core discarded, shredded 3"x 1/4"

1/6 pound onions, julienned 1/8" thick

1 Tablespoon sugar (may need more, to taste)

1/2 cup water

1 apple, cored, uniformly small diced

SACHET: 1 clove, 1 whole allspice, 1 small cinnamon stick

4 teaspoons apple cider vinegar or red wine vinegar

2-3 ounces red wine (or more red wine vinegar, for color and acidity)

Salt, to taste

Pepper, to taste

Chopped parsley, to garnish

Preparation

Sauté the bacon and oil in a large sauté pan over moderate heat until the bacon is slightly crispy. Stir frequently so that the bacon does not burn, nor does it form a "fond", or browning, on the bottom of the pan. Add in onions and continue to sauté. Add in sugar to onions and bacon. Continue to sauté, stirring frequently, until the onions are translucent. Add in the cabbage to braise, Season lightly with salt, to taste. Add in the water and deglaze the bottom of the pan. Add in the sachet and diced apples.

Cover and simmer on low heat, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender to the touch and the cabbage has reached desired tenderness; approximately 8-10 minutes. Add in the apple cider vinegar or red wine vinegar and the red wine. Additional salt and/or sugar may need to be added, to taste.

Cook for an additional 5 minutes to incorporate the liquids and tenderize the cabbage further.

Season to taste with salt and pepper, plate and garnish for service.

Yields: Approximately 4, 5 ounce side portions

Chefs Notes: It is very important in this recipe to often taste and adjust seasoning accordingly. The sweetness, or lack there of, of cabbage varies so greatly depending on the season, the particular crop or where it was grown, that seasoning properly is essential to draw out the desired flavor.